Mortlach 15 Gordon & MacPhail Distillery Labels - 46%
Deep in the heart of Dufftown lurks a beast, but this is no ordinary beast. This is a beast who has prowled this region for almost two centuries, and it's name is Mortlach.
Despite recent ill-fated, and now discarded, attempts to elevate Mortlach into the echelons of premium brands, it still remains one of those whisky treasures only truly known by whisky devotees. The distillery itself is unusual in that it doesn't provide tours, save for the occasional open day during the festival...but that's only one of many things different about Mortlach.
Mortlach became the first legal distillery in Dufftown in 1823, on the site originally occupied by an older illicit distillery. These days the Speyside region, of which Dufftown is part, is generally known for softer, gentle whiskies. Mortlach however treads a very different path.
Much of what makes Mortlach unique is a result of a complex 2.81 distillation process, originally developed in the late 1890's and still employed today. Mortlach use 6 different stills, including a small still they call 'Wee Witchie'. This small still is an integral part of the process as it is used for further distillation of low wines, the hearts of which are then added to the final spirit. When combined with the use of traditional Worm Tub condensers the results are a whisky often described as bold, robust, meaty and muscular, so much so that Dave Broom gave it the title 'The Beast of Dufftown'.
Until relatively recently, Mortlach was only available through independent bottlers such as Gordon & MacPhail, the bulk of the spirit being highly prized by blenders. Mortlach is known for it's use of sherry casks and this is no different, though the lighter colour suggests the use of a significant portion of refill sherry casks being used. This whisky is the newer 46% abv bottling, previous incarnations having been bottled at 43%.
Bottlers Notes
Nose – Initially sweet, fresh and fragrant with a distinct malty nose. Citrus elements develop - fresh orange peel. Well rounded. With Water: Malty and fresh on the nose with a subtle sweetness present, defined Sherry influences and a hint of chocolate and orange linger in the background.
Palate – More subtle sweetness, hints of candied fruits. A rounded Sherry edge is evident and some raisin and sultana notes emerge. With Water: Light and very delicate with a subtle malty edge, with a rounded Sherry influence and a hint of vanilla also. Slightly mouth warming.
Tasting notes:
Appearance: Golden, beading up slowly before falling as slow, thick legs.
Nose: Malt at first, sweetness, hints of leather, stewed apples followed by dried orange peel
Palate: Rich, creamy and complex with Sherry notes coming to the fore. Sweet but restrained, with notes of dried fruits, malt and a little vanilla. With time, delicate notes of orange marmalade and dark chocolate make an appearance as supporting characters.
Finish: Long and warming, creamy malt, vanilla, dried fruit and the return of that hint of leather.
Summary: This is one of those whiskies you take time over and savour. The extra abv doesn't appear to have changed the overall character too much, it's well-balanced, rich, complex and rewarding. I loved the original 43% bottling of this whisky, and I’m delighted this incarnation is every bit as good.
If you would like to know more about Mortlach distillery and their whiskies, follow the link to the Diageo website or click the following link to learn more about Gordon & MacPhail
